Dhankar Monastery & Village: A Cliffhanger for Spiti Valley

Do you recall that soul-stirring scene from the movie “Highway,” where Alia Bhatt, gazing at the majestic peaks, expressed the irresistible pull of the mountains? That very feeling, that profound connection to the towering mountains, is what beckons you now at the same Dhankar Monastery. This is a realm where the raw, untamed beauty of the Himalayas intertwines with a palpable sense of ancient wisdom and spiritual tranquility: welcome to Dhankar Village.

Often embraced as a cherished detour along the celebrated Spiti Valley road trip, venturing towards Dhankar is akin to stepping through a portal into a landscape sculpted by giants. The stark yet mesmerizing terrains that unfold before your eyes offer a captivating contrast, a visual symphony that will undoubtedly leave an indelible mark on your soul. Here, amidst the rugged peaks lies a sanctuary waiting to be discovered.      

The Dhankar Monastery here is more than just a religious structure though; it’s a living testament to Buddhist art, culture, and a significant chapter in Spiti’s history. The very name “Dhankar” is believed to have originated from the local language, where ‘dhank’ means cliff and ‘kar’ means a citadel or a fort possibly carrying connotations related to a defensible or strategic location, fitting its historical role.

Dhankar gompa once served not only as a vital center of Buddhist learning but also as a formidable fort. It is believed that Dhankar was once the capital of the Spiti kingdom during the 17th century, and the monastery complex housed the local rulers. The Chosgyals, the traditional rulers of Spiti, held sway from this strategically advantageous location, controlling trade routes and overseeing the region. The fortified nature of the monastery provided a secure vantage point and a place of refuge during times of conflict.

Best Time to Visit Dhankar

The optimal window to experience the magic of Dhankar monastery, explore the charming Dhankar village, and undertake the rewarding Dhankar lake trek stretches from May to September. During these months, the Spiti Valley enjoys relatively mild and pleasant weather, with daytime temperatures ranging comfortably, making it ideal for sightseeing and trekking. The roads leading to Dhankar, including the route from Tabo to Dhankar (a scenic drive) and the onward journey from Tabo to Kaza, are generally open and in better condition, ensuring smoother travel.

The skies are typically clearer, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the rugged Himalayan landscape that surrounds Dhankar gompa and the pristine waters of Dhankar lake trek. This period avoids the harsh winter conditions that can bring heavy snowfall and road closures, effectively isolating the region. While the early part of this season might still have some lingering chill, especially at higher altitudes, the overall climate is most conducive for a comfortable and memorable visit to Dhankar.

Know More: Best Time To Visit Spiti Valley – Winter vs Summer?

How to Reach Dhankar?

Reaching this gem requires a bit of planning, but the reward is well worth the journey. Here’s how you can embark on your Dhankar adventure:

• By Road: The most common way to reach Dhankar is by road.
  • From Shimla/Manali: You can hire a private taxi or take a Himachal Pradesh Road Transport Corporation (HRTC) bus towards Kaza. From Kaza, which is a major hub in Spiti, Dhankar is approximately 35 kilometers away. You can then hire a local taxi or hop on a shared jeep for the final leg.
  • From Tabo: The distance from Tabo to Dhankar kilometers makes it a convenient and scenic drive. Shared jeeps and taxis are readily available between these two locations.
• By Air: The nearest airport with regular flights is Bhuntar Airport near Kullu. From there, you’ll need to hire a taxi or take a bus towards Kaza and then follow the road route to Dhankar. This is a longer journey but offers stunning views throughout.
• By Train: The nearest major railway stations are Joginder Nagar and Kalka. From either of these stations, you’ll need to take a bus or hire a taxi to reach Manali or Shimla, and then continue your journey to Spiti by road.

Dhankar, though small, holds a charm that’s both rustic and captivating. The traditional Spitian houses clinging to the hillside, the prayer flags fluttering in the crisp mountain air, and the warm smiles of the locals create an atmosphere of peace and tranquility. But the crown jewel of Dhankar is undoubtedly the magnificent Dhankar monastery, also known as Dhankar gompa. The Dhankar monastery too is settled on a dramatic cliff overlooking the confluence of the Spiti and Pin rivers, the monastery almost seems to defy gravity with ancient walls, weathered by time.

Dhankar Monastery

While the ancient Dhankar gompa nestled above holds immense historical and architectural significance, the newer monastery, constructed at a lower elevation in white and red, serves as a vital center for the ongoing Buddhist practices within the community. While it may not possess the weathered charm and centuries-old aura of its older counterpart, a visit to the New Dhankar Monastery offers a valuable insight into the living traditions of Buddhism in Spiti. Here, you can often witness the daily rituals, the chanting of prayers by the resident monks, and the vibrant colors of the religious art and decorations. 

Engaging respectfully with the monks can provide a unique opportunity to learn about their philosophy and way of life. The architecture of the new monastery is more contemporary, yet it still adheres to traditional Buddhist design principles. The Dhankar monastery is more than just a religious structure; it’s a living testament to Buddhist art, culture, and history. Believed to have been founded in the 11th century, it once served as a fort monastery and a significant center of Buddhist learning. The panoramic views from the monastery are simply breathtaking, offering a 360-degree vista of the surrounding snow-capped peaks and the winding rivers below, once crucial for surveillance.

Beyond the Monastery

While the monastery is the main attraction, Dhankar and its surroundings offer other offbeat experiences:

Dhankar Lake Trek

For those whose hearts quicken at the prospect of traversing mountain trails, the Dhankar lake trek is an absolute must-do. This isn’t just a walk; it’s a moderate adventure that unfolds Spiti’s raw beauty. As you ascend, the landscape transforms, revealing panoramic vistas of the valley below, with the Spiti and Pin rivers snaking their way through the rugged terrain. The air grows crisper, carrying the scent of wildflowers and the distant murmur of mountain streams. The trail itself offers a unique perspective of the surrounding peaks, their majestic forms looming closer with each step.

Finally, after approximately 2-3 hours of invigorating trekking (for the ascent and descent combined, though you might want to linger longer at the top!), you’ll be rewarded with the sight of Dhankar Lake. On a clear day, the crystal-clear surface mirrors the towering peaks that encircle it, creating a breathtaking spectacle of natural artistry. Remember to carry water and wear sturdy shoes, as the terrain can be uneven in parts.

Exploring Dhankar Village

Stepping into Dhankar village is like taking a gentle step back in time. This small settlement, clinging to the slopes beneath the watchful eyes of the monastery, offers an authentic glimpse into the traditional way of life in Spiti. As you take a leisurely stroll through its narrow pathways, you’ll witness the unique architecture of the Spitian houses, often built with mud bricks and adapted to the challenging terrain.

Observe the daily routines of the locals – perhaps you’ll see children playing, elders engaged in conversation, or farmers tending to their small plots of land. Don’t hesitate to interact with the friendly residents; their warm smiles and genuine hospitality are a defining characteristic of the Spitian people.

Lhalung Village (Nearby)

A short and scenic drive from Dhankar will lead you to the enchanting village of Lhalung. Often referred to as the “Land of Gods,” Lhalung exudes a mystical aura and is renowned for its own ancient monastery, the Kungri Gompa. This gompa is steeped in history and is believed to house significant religious artifacts and murals. Exploring its serene interiors offers another window into the rich Buddhist heritage of the Spiti Valley.

However, what makes Lhalung particularly captivating is the breathtaking view it offers of the “hanging glacier.” This natural wonder appears to cling precariously to the mountainside, a stunning spectacle of ice and rock. The drive to Lhalung itself is picturesque, winding through dramatic landscapes that showcase the unique geological formations of the region.

Recommended Read: 20 Best Places To Visit In Spiti Valley

Dhankar: A Spiti Stopover

When planning your Spiti Valley road trip, don’t just rush from Tabo to Kaza. The short detour to Dhankar offers a unique and enriching experience. It breaks the journey beautifully, allowing you to immerse yourself in the raw beauty and spiritual aura of this special place. Spending a night in Dhankar can be incredibly rewarding, allowing you to witness the mesmerizing play of light on the mountains during sunrise and sunset.

Why Visit Winter Spiti Valley? Your Ultimate Guide to a Snow-Covered Paradise

Food and Accommodation in Dhankar

Being a small village, accommodation options in Dhankar are limited but comfortable. You’ll find guesthouses and homestays offering basic amenities and warm hospitality. It’s advisable to book in advance, especially during peak season. Food options are also simple and usually consist of local Indian and Tibetan dishes. Expect hearty meals like thukpa, momos, and dal-rice. Most guesthouses have their own kitchens, and you might find a few small eateries in the village.

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Dhankar is more than just a dot on the Spiti map; it’s a feeling, an experience that resonates with the soul. The dramatic landscapes, the ancient wisdom emanating from the Dhankar monastery, and the peaceful vibe of Dhankar village create a unique blend that will leave you spellbound. So, listen to the call of the mountains, take that diversion, and discover the magic of Dhankar. You won’t regret it.

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